a halsband

1539 nrw holbein anne portrait halsband

I am currently making over all my jewelry for my Cleves ensemble so these are the references I am using.

One of the accessories Anne of Cleves wears is a striking collar like necklace made from wide stylised flowers set with large round gold beads between.

1539 nrw holbein anne portrait halsband
1539 nrw holbein anne portrait halsband
1539 nrw holbein anne portrait miniature halsband
1539 nrw holbein anne portrait miniature halsband
1539 nrw bbda anne bernel halsband
1539 nrw bbda anne bernel halsband

This last version is most interesting as it matches so very closely to several other halsbander worn in cologne. Here are similar examples in chronological order.

1520 nrw unbek flugel frau mit 8 tochter 1 halsband
1520 nrw unbek flugel frau mit 8 tochter 1 halsband (Also a wide kette around the gown opening)
1520 nrw bbda beweinung christi halsband
1520 nrw bbda beweinung christi halsband (a more standard kette worn over her shoulders as well.)
1540 nrw bbda sibylla kessel halsband
1540 nrw bbda sibylla kessel halsband (A very wide ribbon type of kette outside her neckline)
1538 nrw bbda flugel wolff frau mit 4 tochtern 1 halsband
1538 nrw bbda flugel wolff frau mit 4 tochtern 1 halsband (compare her longer kette here to the extant examples below.)
1565 nrw bbdj catharina von seigen geb kannegeisser halsband
1565 nrw bbdj catharina von seigen geb kannegeisser halsband
1575 nrw geldorp elisabeth von hackney halsband
1575 nrw geldorp elisabeth von hackney halsband
1587 nrw geldorp katharina von gail halsband
1587 nrw geldorp katharina von gail halsband

Of these most use a floral centre of some sort (passionflower maybe?) in a rounded/squared open worked gold with round gold beads/balls, at the points that the sections connect to.

Of the extant collars and gurdeln in the Nordrhein several use a hinge join between sections.

guertel heiligin anna
hinge: guertel heiligin anna, c1500 Dueren, St Anna
schuetzenkette
Hinge: schuetzenkette, Goch, St Antonius, Emmerich

While others, usually the more open worked pieces, use a loop and ring.

schuetzenkette sankt georgs bruderschaft 2
Loop and ring: schuetzenkette sankt georgs bruderschaft, Kleve
svhuetzenkette sankt antoius bruderschat
Loop and ring: schuetzenkette sankt antonius bruderschaft, Kleve
IMG20180408145514
loop and ring: Schuetzenkette St Michael Bruderschaft, Goch

One final example uses loop and ring but further stabilises the pieces with stitches to a fabric base.

ketter sebastians bruderschaft 1
holes in each corner, thread in upper right corner and lower right corner: kette sebastians bruderschaft, Kalkar
ketter sebastians bruderschaft 2
thread stitched through each loop at each corner: kette sebastians bruderschaft, Kalkar

I can’t seem to find the same kind of fastening between sections as used in the portraits but I hope also that these images help illustrate how very fine gold and silverwork was in this region and it was especially on display in these halsbander whether for personal or religious use. I also believe this kind of work was used on other accessories and my next post will deal with this.

Also of note, in this region a long kette (chain necklace) was worn but was usually of a single chain, occasionally of the latribbon type seen elsewhere but more often a simple solid oval ring, or ring with a slight twist to lay flat.