So I wasn’t sure I could get away with such small appliances but I can and they really do make a huge difference. I have a much more pointed nose than Angelina and was worried the nose piece would make my nose look shorter, but it does the opposite! It’s not just a bump, it’s very carefully tapered so as to raise in to the bridge higher than my actual nose. That piece makes it longer, and I would not have known unless I had my facecast to actually look at it from the outside

The cheeks are no deeper than 1/2″ and atm about 1 1/2 wide, if that and that will get smaller once I start smoothing it properly (after peeling them off, evening them up, and then sanding the PVA layer on the face). So very close to the originals. The mainly move and sharpen the cheeks unnaturally than really change the shape of the face. In part because they need to lie only on places where there is not a lot of movement so avoiding the eye socket and going past the apple of the cheeks. I may move them a bit further in to the temples though.

In order to get the horns off I may have to soak the head in water to soften the PVA and peel it off. I’ll do that once I get the horns stabilised and ready to test. The bogging stage will not be messy as the filler can be used at densities high enough to make it hand formable and non sticky.

The horns are slightly asymmetric, I need to check this on my own head to see if it is obvious in reality.

Not really, but they were a PITA to get to this stage. The glue on one side didn’t cure and so fell off and in the middle of mixing fibre and filler. This means a very short working time and so I tried all sorts of ways to get it stuck back on.

Heating the mix to make it cure faster? Nope. And my heat gun died. Sigh.

Cleaning and using a contact glue? Nope. Too much uncured resin around interfering on a chemical level.

Cleaning and using a hot glue gun?
JUST BARELY BUT IT DID!

I checked on the horns and they are still stable and the resin is curing. It’s still cold and malleable but working.

Also see if you can spot what I did. Sorry small image is small. But it’s not in the traffic but nearly centre of the photo…

And finally Mr Boo. Looking discombobulated after a bit of fur ball wheezing this morning. He always looks as if it is something happening to him by some unseen person. So a few pats and a warm toasty blankie and he was okay.

I will be able to trial the mouse sander tomorrow 🙂 Actual mouse sander that has proper accessories and exhaust which means no burning through motors!

Also it is super light. This was very important.

No new ear casts because I am about to start to slow walk to bed.

Basically back filled the side seams that had opened while sanding back and evening up what needs to be evened and then able to be cut back. I didn’t realise how much extra I had added in my effort to join the two halves together.

So after this I will be able to back fill and shove on a spike pipe so as to be able to work some clay on that face! I’ll have to leave the surface a bit rough to help the clay hold. But very happy to get this to the no more resin stage! Except my ears. Darnnit!!!

My super soft crepe for the Hindi Satine costume has done stunt duty for the tabbard pattern. If I were able to dye this a lovely rich black I’d just go and use this for the actual lining. sadly there is not enough to do so even if it were cost effective.

It is both easy and not easy. I really wanted that accordion effect down the side and to direct the majority of the folds to the front. I am really happy with the front but the back really needs some work. It needs to be shaped differently to allow for the cloak to fit smoothly over the top. Sigh. But I will be able to grab the pattern of this before I start to  try to work on that. But at this stage, yes it looks like about 11 yards of fabric is needed. Full width fore fronts and backs (6m) and then about 2 yards each side for the back panels that turn in to the cloak. Maybe more as there is a strange gore CB that may hide a good fold of fabric.

I remembered O have a lovely crepey fabric in stash 🙂 It’s what I used for my Rachi so I can hopefully make the moors robe and a circle skirt to go with my Rachi robes to make a custom jedi 🙂

Velvet… omnomnomnomnom.

Leather for the boots! This brown pvc coating does come off (with a solvent)

Perfect finish and weight for functional boot covers. Who am I kidding. I’ll make a full boot upper!

The MJ Trends stretch matte PVC. This is amazing! Super stretchy much softer than it looks here, I have not stretched it as I do not want to pin through the fabric. But I have tested it against their shiny butt stuff and it has a very similar stretch. Slightly more vertically though. So a light single knit backing with a light but good coating. I have a few samples to send to locals to get a feel. I may be able to post small 5cm by 10cm pieces to others as well.

Well worth the money and shipping. It’s fully tracked so it is pretty much dollar for dollar fabric/shipping. This is why I didn’t get spiral steels at the same time. Now I wish I did!

Just some sketch notes, I do line art rather than full sketches so as to clearly define seams and edges. Inext stage is to get more specific in terms of exact position. The detail page of the back is for when I see the film again and get proper notes. The lower back is very poorly documented in current publications so I’ll have to hope the doll is accurate or that I can get those costume details from the big screen 🙂
The DVD cover has been released so hopefully it will be out soon enough to use for references!