more clevische kleidung

Today I got my lining put together and pinned into the pink Cleves skirt, reshaped my hulle and steamed it into a nice curve (yep, millinery, so much steam and pressing and more steam and the stink of ammonia, and lanolin, and and more steam.) I have set it aside so I can make another pressing shape as my wulsts are really squishy.

And I did manage to tidy some of my inventory files. It’s still heavy on accessories other than hats and garments other than gowns. Which are you know, the most important part.

But I may also have a lead on looking for secondary texts. Gewand is used a fair amount so I’ve been brute force searching.

Meanwhile I do need to actually put those files in their proper places and transcribe them.

 

Of course the very best files are photos of documents but they are not of a resolution that I can read them. Which is annoying.

 

But, that is a lot of ironing of line lining and wool hat so… i’ll get that put away and get the files in place.

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more gear from mina

(Mina is the shortform of my SCA name and tends to be used just as a nickname for me- I like it 🙂 )

I just grabbed a set of a knife and fork from Trademe- mother of pearl handles, silver decorative join to the functional end. Not suse the content of the functional end.

They are really lovely, and fit what I wanted 🙂

I want to make a case for them. So it means having them in hand sooner rather than later 🙂 I am not entirely sure how they are made but I have a few options to work with.

So, why a knife and fork? Aren’t forks out of era. Nope.

My favourite set ever is Italian and is made with rock crystal.

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O112430/cutlery-set-unknown/

It seems to have been redesignated later than 16thC but there are similar that are earlier.

http://gyujtemeny.imm.hu/gyujtemeny/kes/1434?i=1377

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Wien_Schatzkammer_Deutscher_Orden_-_Essbesteck.jpg

So I originally tried to find modern cutlery I could adapt, but Most just cannot- I need each end to unscrew and have a core to thread crystal on to.. So a look around at further designs:

 

All from Bildindex, info in photos. All 16-17thC and across the states.

So my theory is that we don’t just see sets of knives in the Trachtenbucher but possibly knife and fork sets.

Mostly the forks are long tined. I personally do not want to run the risk of poking myself in the face with them so I am fine with a smaller tine set further to the end. In the first image there is a case that may be associated witht he matching set.

But now for the cases:

https://www.bildindex.de/document/obj05227007 https://www.bildindex.de/document/obj05227006

These could well be wedding knife sets. There don’t seem to be a top end to the cases. And they seem to be silver.

These do appear to match the sets worn in the trachtenbuch.

These are from Weigel’s book https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Frauen-Trachtenbuch_(1586)

https://www.bildindex.de/document/obj00290368  and https://www.bildindex.de/document/obj00290368

These are from de Bruyn.

These appear on both unmarried and married women, so I think these are a status symbol- I found single knives in cases on working women though.

So, any evidence that these are knives and forks:

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/210073?rpp=60&pg=1&rndkey=20140327&ao=on&ft=*&where=Europe&what=Knives&pos=38

This is later, but the case and cutlery are a match.

And

http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?assetId=1477461001&objectId=35872&partId=1

c1600.

Yes! I can make a case like this from the scraps of heavy russet I have. I think I’ll need to learn some techniques from shoemaking as I’ll want really crisp edges. But I’ll be able to embroider the case 🙂 or… I still have diamon shaped brass stampings I used for my Valois ouches set. They could be shaped to fit.

Anyway. Yay! Now I need to find a matching spoon to carry in my purse 🙂

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Kickstarter! Tailor's pattern books

I know both Marion and Katherine through the German Renaissance Costume group and lj for years and they are both incredible researchers. This is a book I am funding, just need to grab one of the slots!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor

So the first thing you see is a thumbnail of a pattern. This is all you need to know before even the other wordy nerdy stuff (which I have seen snippets of and will be wonderful to have in print!

Have you spotted why it is amazing? Look under the bust. What do you see. If I link you to this:

Die Kostümsammlung Hüpsch im Hessischen Landesmuseum Darmstadt
Bestandskatalog der Männer- und Frauenkleidung
Studien zu Material, Technik und Geschichte der
Bekleidung im 17. Jahrhundert
Johannes Pietsch

In the appendices there are the patterns he made of the extant garments but also a handful of images from extant tailoring books including:

(page 329) abb. 111: Schnitt eines Frauenwamses aus dem Musterbuch der Schneider von Enns, 1590

(page 324) abb. 92: Schnitt fuer Rock und Mieder einer Braut aus dem Meisterstueckbuch der Schneiderzunft se Swabach, spaetes 16. Jr. So this may the master book Katherine refers to. Btw this has a gored skirt and doublet bodice and a scooped neck bodice and a circle skirt? I can’t read beyond basic lengths “1 1/2 e(squiggle that probably means el) lang”

 

So yes I have been eyeing these original sources for some time but I had no way of getting at them! Couldn’t even back track through this appendix to find where some of the books were even still housed! So Yay! this means I can go forward with my own interpretive book as I have planned for about 6 years now.. okay more like 7.. erm… because I will at last have sources to point people to in my own appendix. At the moment a lot of it is “private emails with K. Barich” so.. yeah 🙂

Ditto with the book based on the journal I have been sifting through 🙂 Might see if I can ILL that. And seriously it was full of gossip, so full of gossip. Local and European wide.

So back on Koeln train baby!

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Kickstarter! Tailor’s pattern books

I know both Marion and Katherine through the German Renaissance Costume group and lj for years and they are both incredible researchers. This is a book I am funding, just need to grab one of the slots!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor

So the first thing you see is a thumbnail of a pattern. This is all you need to know before even the other wordy nerdy stuff (which I have seen snippets of and will be wonderful to have in print!

Have you spotted why it is amazing? Look under the bust. What do you see. If I link you to this:

Die Kostümsammlung Hüpsch im Hessischen Landesmuseum Darmstadt
Bestandskatalog der Männer- und Frauenkleidung
Studien zu Material, Technik und Geschichte der
Bekleidung im 17. Jahrhundert
Johannes Pietsch

In the appendices there are the patterns he made of the extant garments but also a handful of images from extant tailoring books including:

(page 329) abb. 111: Schnitt eines Frauenwamses aus dem Musterbuch der Schneider von Enns, 1590

(page 324) abb. 92: Schnitt fuer Rock und Mieder einer Braut aus dem Meisterstueckbuch der Schneiderzunft se Swabach, spaetes 16. Jr. So this may the master book Katherine refers to. Btw this has a gored skirt and doublet bodice and a scooped neck bodice and a circle skirt? I can’t read beyond basic lengths “1 1/2 e(squiggle that probably means el) lang”

 

So yes I have been eyeing these original sources for some time but I had no way of getting at them! Couldn’t even back track through this appendix to find where some of the books were even still housed! So Yay! this means I can go forward with my own interpretive book as I have planned for about 6 years now.. okay more like 7.. erm… because I will at last have sources to point people to in my own appendix. At the moment a lot of it is “private emails with K. Barich” so.. yeah 🙂

Ditto with the book based on the journal I have been sifting through 🙂 Might see if I can ILL that. And seriously it was full of gossip, so full of gossip. Local and European wide.

So back on Koeln train baby!

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Ummm… I have another cunning plan. I will probably be doing my Worth Gown this year. *hangs head* But I know now how quickly I can pearl so it shouldn’t be too bad. As a refresher:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/sunburst.htm Direct to the actual dress: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/haut/hob_C.I.49.3.25a,b.htm

I actually have just over 6m of the silk faced satin which will be pleanty as I can top and tail the skirt sections, the bodice has no shoulders or peplum or sleeves so I shoould be able to get the train out of it as well.

Help. *is obsessed*

Oh further to the Operation Clean Up, the soot is proving stubborn in the sleeve linings so I may wind up replacing them with silk charmeuse I bought for an Ever After gown. It’s currently a very pale pink but I may get more colour out with another round of Dye-Gon (previously known as Pre-Dye) and so be able to use that without an interlining.

Do I now unpick the sleeves from my Cleves gown? And maybe the lining? I was shaking quite hard as I was unpicking the valois sleeves as it was. This is rather a bigger step so I’m not sure how I’ll do. So I was right in making something new for Coronation. It was stressful but the stresses were indirectly related to the fire. Unpicking past work and confronting the very direct effects of the fire would just have been too much at that time. It’s hard enough now. But I can do it.

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