Cotton tulle! Get it while it's there!

I finally have a cape fabric for Elsa that I can easily dye with predictable results! I can’t believe it is available so randomly… Geoff’s Emporium on Lincoln Rd, Henderson has two rolls of about 30m each of off white cotton tulle.

I may have grabbed what I could of the white. There is a little colour variation as I think it was from their older pre-fire stock. But it’s $NZ8/m and about 140cm wide (about 40″ to a metre, about 55″ wide). So if you want some 6m is more than enough for a very generous cape 🙂

They also have a a magnificent wool gabardine. Or satin. I want to say satin but there is just enough definition of the Z wale. But it’s more like a heavy cotton satin with that clear direction of the face. And it’s black. It is magnificent and glorious and I want to make a proper suit out of it and I will as soon as I decide between c1600 Cologne or c1500 Nuernberg. It will both drape beautifully for 1500s and pink well for 1600s. I think Nuernberg as it will be comfortable and I can line it in my maroon silk and be not quite historically accurate Maleficent 😉

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Cotton tulle! Get it while it’s there!

I finally have a cape fabric for Elsa that I can easily dye with predictable results! I can’t believe it is available so randomly… Geoff’s Emporium on Lincoln Rd, Henderson has two rolls of about 30m each of off white cotton tulle.

I may have grabbed what I could of the white. There is a little colour variation as I think it was from their older pre-fire stock. But it’s $NZ8/m and about 140cm wide (about 40″ to a metre, about 55″ wide). So if you want some 6m is more than enough for a very generous cape 🙂

They also have a a magnificent wool gabardine. Or satin. I want to say satin but there is just enough definition of the Z wale. But it’s more like a heavy cotton satin with that clear direction of the face. And it’s black. It is magnificent and glorious and I want to make a proper suit out of it and I will as soon as I decide between c1600 Cologne or c1500 Nuernberg. It will both drape beautifully for 1500s and pink well for 1600s. I think Nuernberg as it will be comfortable and I can line it in my maroon silk and be not quite historically accurate Maleficent 😉

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Kickstarter! Tailor's pattern books

I know both Marion and Katherine through the German Renaissance Costume group and lj for years and they are both incredible researchers. This is a book I am funding, just need to grab one of the slots!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor

So the first thing you see is a thumbnail of a pattern. This is all you need to know before even the other wordy nerdy stuff (which I have seen snippets of and will be wonderful to have in print!

Have you spotted why it is amazing? Look under the bust. What do you see. If I link you to this:

Die Kostümsammlung Hüpsch im Hessischen Landesmuseum Darmstadt
Bestandskatalog der Männer- und Frauenkleidung
Studien zu Material, Technik und Geschichte der
Bekleidung im 17. Jahrhundert
Johannes Pietsch

In the appendices there are the patterns he made of the extant garments but also a handful of images from extant tailoring books including:

(page 329) abb. 111: Schnitt eines Frauenwamses aus dem Musterbuch der Schneider von Enns, 1590

(page 324) abb. 92: Schnitt fuer Rock und Mieder einer Braut aus dem Meisterstueckbuch der Schneiderzunft se Swabach, spaetes 16. Jr. So this may the master book Katherine refers to. Btw this has a gored skirt and doublet bodice and a scooped neck bodice and a circle skirt? I can’t read beyond basic lengths “1 1/2 e(squiggle that probably means el) lang”

 

So yes I have been eyeing these original sources for some time but I had no way of getting at them! Couldn’t even back track through this appendix to find where some of the books were even still housed! So Yay! this means I can go forward with my own interpretive book as I have planned for about 6 years now.. okay more like 7.. erm… because I will at last have sources to point people to in my own appendix. At the moment a lot of it is “private emails with K. Barich” so.. yeah 🙂

Ditto with the book based on the journal I have been sifting through 🙂 Might see if I can ILL that. And seriously it was full of gossip, so full of gossip. Local and European wide.

So back on Koeln train baby!

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Kickstarter! Tailor’s pattern books

I know both Marion and Katherine through the German Renaissance Costume group and lj for years and they are both incredible researchers. This is a book I am funding, just need to grab one of the slots!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor

So the first thing you see is a thumbnail of a pattern. This is all you need to know before even the other wordy nerdy stuff (which I have seen snippets of and will be wonderful to have in print!

Have you spotted why it is amazing? Look under the bust. What do you see. If I link you to this:

Die Kostümsammlung Hüpsch im Hessischen Landesmuseum Darmstadt
Bestandskatalog der Männer- und Frauenkleidung
Studien zu Material, Technik und Geschichte der
Bekleidung im 17. Jahrhundert
Johannes Pietsch

In the appendices there are the patterns he made of the extant garments but also a handful of images from extant tailoring books including:

(page 329) abb. 111: Schnitt eines Frauenwamses aus dem Musterbuch der Schneider von Enns, 1590

(page 324) abb. 92: Schnitt fuer Rock und Mieder einer Braut aus dem Meisterstueckbuch der Schneiderzunft se Swabach, spaetes 16. Jr. So this may the master book Katherine refers to. Btw this has a gored skirt and doublet bodice and a scooped neck bodice and a circle skirt? I can’t read beyond basic lengths “1 1/2 e(squiggle that probably means el) lang”

 

So yes I have been eyeing these original sources for some time but I had no way of getting at them! Couldn’t even back track through this appendix to find where some of the books were even still housed! So Yay! this means I can go forward with my own interpretive book as I have planned for about 6 years now.. okay more like 7.. erm… because I will at last have sources to point people to in my own appendix. At the moment a lot of it is “private emails with K. Barich” so.. yeah 🙂

Ditto with the book based on the journal I have been sifting through 🙂 Might see if I can ILL that. And seriously it was full of gossip, so full of gossip. Local and European wide.

So back on Koeln train baby!

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I reached back a little further than 5 years 😉 1997-2005- but in reverse… oldest last… and you may be lucky and I may share photos of my really earliest costumes… Grizabella/Griddlebone, “wishing” dress interpretation and Poison Ivy. And maybe All Good Warrior Princesses Go to Heaven (which was actually based on the costume I was going to use for my sportsfighting character.. Neimhaille).

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bestofcosplay:

Cleves Blue 1 by ~glittersweet

I’m surprised this got even one note 😉 Seriously, I’m flattered as this is a style that doesn’t really fit in with the modern aesthetic 🙂 It’s accurate, right down to pinned on sleeves (okay that is my conjecture based on woodcuts of the time as well as written documents of the time) and silly cloak hanging from the head.

The cloak is a heuke and it is about 2kg, maybe three (more than five pounds) and is carefully held in place using mainly a little engineering trickery:

Hair is plaited and pinned (bobby pins) around the crown.

A fitted cap (guldhaube) is pinned (sewing pins) to the hair in front and behind the plaits with florists pins.

A shaped cap (sticklechen) is pinned over the cap and pinned also just in front of the plaits. There is a velvet lappet pinned around the front on the underside which adds tension to hold it balanced at the back of the head.

Then the heuke collar is pinned to the fitted cap (guldhaube) and the fabric hangs over the back.

My original stickelchen had pearls and goldtone bezants all over it but the sequins were ruined by a house fire and I have never managed to redo the base frame to fit. The base is buckram and felt steamed to shape.

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